Goldsmiths in Berlin carving out a novel route for an enduring craftsmanship
In the heart of Berlin, a vibrant community of goldsmiths is navigating the challenges of a rapidly evolving market. Founded by artisans like Johanna Gauder, Varvara Krotkova, Anna Butwell, and Bert van Wijk, this community is blending traditional techniques with contemporary design sensibilities to keep the goldsmith craft alive and relevant.
The current landscape presents several challenges. Goldsmiths must adapt to a market pressured by modern commercial and payment systems, sustain creative and skilled craftsmanship, and meet the evolving expectations of consumers. These challenges require a keen understanding of business operations and customer experience, in addition to mastery of the craft.
One such artisan, Johanna Gauder, founded her eponymous brand in 2015 after completing a degree in product design. She lists inflation, increasing costs of production, and a lack of skilled professionals as contributing factors to the craft's difficulties. Despite these challenges, Gauder's brand offers predominantly silver rings, bracelets, and necklaces, with a focus on unique designs that reflect her conceptual art and new material explorations.
Anna Butwell, another member of this dynamic community, has been making rock'n'roll jewellery since 2018. Her most recurring design element is the word 'fuck', stamped on her rings and bracelets, complemented by stacker rings and pendants often featuring chains, sapphires, and diamonds. Butwell's 'fuck' pieces, along with her other designs, are a testament to her commitment to personal expression and artistic freedom.
Varvara Krotkova, an autodidact in the trade, teaches herself how to file, solder, saw, forge, cast, and polish precious metals by attending classes and workshops in the US and Germany. Her jewellery, made from sterling silver and gemstones, is often inspired by architecture and nature. Krotkova's work can be found on Instagram @varvara.krotkova.
Berlin's jewellery-making community is not just thriving; it's growing. More and more independent jewellers are offering workshops and organizing events where they connect, collaborate, and share their knowledge. This community-driven approach not only helps cultivate a loyal customer base but also serves as a beacon for budding jewellers looking to forge a career in the trade.
BAZK Berlin, a joint venture founded in 2016 by Angela Gomez and Bert van Wijk, is another example of this trend. Their pieces, which come with a rough finish and are often reminiscent of time-worn concrete, can be found online and on Instagram.
Despite the ever-decreasing number of trained artisans, the goldsmith craft remains one of the oldest trades in the world, with evidence dating back to 4000 BC in Europe. Goldsmiths have historically adorned royals, commoners, and created family heirlooms, tokens of love, and tools of self-expression.
In a world where machine-made jewellery dominates the market, handcrafted pieces retain a higher status than ever. Consumers prefer pieces that show signs of human craftsmanship, making artisans like Johanna Gauder, Varvara Krotkova, Anna Butwell, and Bert van Wijk essential figures in Berlin's jewellery scene.
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- In the exciting realm of Berlin's dynamic jewellery-making community, artisans like Johanna Gauder are expanding their craft beyond goldsmithing, venturing into fashion-and-beauty with her conceptual art-inspired pieces.
- As the home-and-garden industry continues to advocate for sustainable practices, the technology-savvy Varvara Krotkova and other Berlin artisans are sharing their eco-friendly production methods during workshops, contributing to the education-and-self-development of upcoming generations of jewellers.
