Ben Harney, Known as "Moody"
In the 19th century, New York City was the oyster capital of the world, with more than 1 million oysters being shucked, served, and slurped every day. This rich history is being revived by Ben "Moody" Harney Jr., founder of Real Mother Shuckers.
Moody, a resident of Ocean Hill, Brooklyn, initially had a dislike for oysters. However, his perspective changed after working at Maison Premiere, a renowned oyster bar in Brooklyn. His training at Maison Premiere required him to respect the bivalve in its raw state, and he was even asked to flip and smell oysters, a practice he had not done before.
Thomas Downing, known as the "Oyster King," was a free Black oysterman who started his career selling oysters on the street and later opened the Thomas Downing Oyster House in 1825. Downing, who became one of New York City's wealthiest men, shipped massive numbers of live, fried, or pickled oysters to Europe and the West Indies. His restaurant was exclusive and comfortable for women and children, a departure from the rough-and-tumble oyster cellars that were also operated by New Yorkers of African descent.
In 1833, Black oystermen settled in the Sandy Ground neighborhood of Staten Island, forming the first free Black community in New York State. Moody's mission is to reconnect New Yorkers with this history, and he is partnering with city council members to fund oyster giveaways. He is also looking to partner with food banks and the New York City Housing Authority for the same purpose.
Moody's primary goal is to make oysters accessible to all, especially his own community given its historical connection to the bivalve. He has learned to identify more than 30 varieties of both East and West Coast oysters during his training. Real Mother Shuckers has outlets at Market 57 and Industry City in Sunset Park.
Despite oysters once being a common man's food, they have yet to (re)cross the color barrier in Black communities. Moody believes they could become accessible once again. He is not only selling oysters but also sharing New York history through his revamped ice cream cart-turned-oyster cart, which can be found in various locations around the city.
Moody is also partnering with New York City schools to teach teenagers basic knife skills, food prep, and business management acumen. His work is not just about selling oysters; it's about rekindling a connection with New York's rich oyster history and making it accessible to all.
